The Story of Batik Cirebon

Cirebon (formerly referred to as Cheribon in English) is a port city on the north coast of the Indonesian island of Java. It is located in the province of West Java near the provincial border with Central Java, approximately 297 km east of Jakarta.According to the manuscript Purwaka Caruban Nagari, in 15th century Cirebon started as a small fishing village named Muara Jati. At that time the port of Muara Jati has already attracted many foreign traders. Located in coastal area and have one of busiest harbor in west java, there has been culture assimilation going on in Cirebon for very long time and it is indeed affected in development of local culture including batik.

The story of Batik Cirebon started from the reign of Sunan Gunung jati. Cirebon under the reign of Sunan Gunung Jati is the oldest center of Islamic kingdom in Java and an important port for trade routes from Persia, India, Arabia, Europe and China. It is told that Sunan Gunung Jati married a Chinese princess name Ong Tie. The wife of Sunan Gunung jati is very concerned about art esspecially ceramic. The motif on ceramic tiles that she brought from China is then ultimately affect batik motifs as a cultural blend between Cirebon and Chinese.

If the batik motifs inspiration comes from Princess Ong Tie, the development of batik Cirebon cannot be separated from the role of Ki Gede Trusmi, a loyal follower of Sunan Gunung Jati who teaches the art of batik as he preach about Islam. Batik Cirebon has been classified as one of coastal batik in Indonesia, however batik Cirebon has its own character that differs from other batik in the coastal area in Indonesia (i.e batik pekalongan, batik tegalan, etc). Batik Cirebon has strong character mainly in colouring technique. Batik Cirebon is famous with its colorful color in its batik. The color is very attractive like red, blue, yellow, like no other batik.

Classic design of batik Cirebon belongs to Cirebon Palace including the most famous motif mega mendung motif that inspired by the Chinese culture, other classic design is  Paksinaga Liman, Patran Keris, Singa Payung (Lion Umbrella), SInga Barong  (Lion Barong), Banjar Balong, Ayam Alas(Chicken) etc. Other contemporary motif design of batik Cirebon such as batik kompeni that inspired by the colonialism era, buketan motif (flower), animal motifs like birds, butterfly and elephant is also including the character of batik Cirebon.

Since the development of batik Cirebon has been grow fast because of Ki Gede Trusmi, it is can be found that batik production center has been grow in the area of Trusmi village until today.

A Cultural Beauty of Indonesian Batik

Consisting of more than 17,000 islands, Indonesia, the world’s largest archipelagic country in the world, lies across the equator. It is situated southeast off the Asian mainland and northwest of Australia with a population of approximately 245 million people with 300 ethnic groups living on different islands. In addition to its multiethnic background, Indonesia’s unique culture is rooted in the country’s history as an outpost of Malay, Chinese, Indian, Arab and Dutch explorers, colonists and traders.

Indonesia has been known for its batik since the 4th or 5th century, and it has been said that Indonesian batik dye techniques and designs are as numerous as its islands. The designs and colors vary in accordance with the villages and ethnic groups that have spread out in different islands. Several Javanese villages have maintained their heritage of Batik craftsmanship for hundreds of years.

Batik has been both an art and craft for centuries and is part of an ancient tradition. The word batik is derived from the Javanese word ‘amba’, means ‘to write’, the suffix ‘titik’ means little dot or to make dots. In a manuscript on a lontar leaf originating from around 1520 AD which was found in Galuh, Southern Cirebon (west Java), it is written that batik also means ‘seratan’ which in Javanese means ‘writing’. As a matter of fact, batik is ‘wax writing’, a way of decorating cloth by covering a part of it with a coat of wax and then dyeing the cloth. It is a technique of covering parts of fabric which will not receive color. The waxed areas keep their original color and when the wax is removed the contrast between the dyed and undyed areas forms the pattern.

The emergence of batik art in Java is still in discussion until today. Each expert has his own opinion. G.P. Rouffaer (1900), Jasper and also Pringadi (1912) said that batik art came from India together with the arrival of Indian merchants in Indonesia in the 4th or 5th century. Along with the trading activities, Hindu culture brought by the Indians, including 2 Batik The Cultural Beauty batik art, began to enter and develop in the Isle of Java. The relief that decorates the walls of the famous Borobudur temple, Prambanan, and some temples in Bali, show that the apparel worn by the Kings resembles Batik motifs While other archeologists believe that batik art, which has become inseparable from the Javanese culture, has taken a very long process of cultural transformation. It emerged from local culture and in the course of its development it was strongly influenced by Hindu, China and European culture. Batik had emerged from local culture long before the foreign influence came to Indonesia.

No other country has developed batik to its present art form as the highly developed elaborately patterned batik found on the island of Java in Indonesia, although they also use the technique of dye resisting decoration. Some experts think that batik was originally reserved as an art form for Javanese royalty, as some particular patterns like the parang design were reserved to be worn only by royalty from the Sultan’s palace.

Princesses and noble women may have provided the inspiration for the highly refined designs in traditional patterns. In those times, the women of the Sultan’s Keraton occupied themselves by painting delicate Batik designs. This fine art form became a sign of cultivation and refinement. For the Javanese, batik is not only a popular decorated textile, but it has a deeper philosophy of importance which takes each Javanese from the cradle to the grave.

When a baby is born, batik is used to wrap the new born baby in and later to carry it around. When people get married it is an integral part of the wedding attire of the bride and the groom as well as their parents. And finally at the end of their life, Batik is used to cover their bodies during the funeral.

Batik has continued to exist over the years and has shown signs of becoming even more widespread boosted by the dynamic development in the technological, esthetical, functional and economical aspects. In spite of the many ups and downs and challenges occurring in the Indonesian economy, batik arts have continued to flourish up to this decade.

If in the ancient time only noble families were allowed to wear certain batik designs, nowadays almost everybody from all economic levels wear various kinds of batik for everyday use as well as for special events. Batik arts have become important product of Indonesia. In many big cities, batik industries are found, which produce either ‘batik cap’ (stamped batik), or ‘batik-tulis’ (hand-drawn batik). The batik factories are mainly found in Solo, Yogyakarta, Cirebon, Banyumas, Pekalongan, Jakarta, Tuban, Madura, Bali, Sumatera, and Kalimantan.

Batik spread to the USA, Europe and other Western countries as it was introduced by the Dutch who travelled to and from Indonesia, which was a former Dutch colony. The old Batik cloth was brought to Europe by Governor General Raffles when he returned to England in 1816. The oldest Indonesian batik is now on display in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Batik Wash Instruction

If you have batik and want it to last for very long time, you should follow the following batik wash instruction.

  • Hand washed and wash separately, as it may contain left over wax.
  • Use lukewarm water with mild, non-alkaline soap or baby shampoo.
  • Do not soak the batik for more than 10 minutes.
  • Do not use chlorine bleach, strong detergents or brighteners.
  • Do not wring or twist the batik to squeeze out the water.
  • Hang it under shade and avoid direct sun light to preserve its beautiful color

Batik: A Living Heritage

Jenée Tibshraeny, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta | Feature | Sun, 02/12/2012 2:12 PM

From the depths of dimly lit workshops, hazed by Java’s humidity and smothered by vapors of molten wax, comes the universal language — batik.

The art form has documented Indonesian history, culture, landscapes, religion and society on exquisitely dyed pieces of cloth for centuries.

Yet the laborious task of spending up to year using canting, a fountain pen-like tool to apply liquid wax to a cloth, transcends time and space.

The imprints of patience and intimacy that batik artists leave on their work are manifestations of humanity as much as they are manifestations of Indonesia.

Along with the Clean Batik Initiative, JERIN — a project platform put forward by the German Embassy in Jakarta, the Goethe-Institute Jakarta and the German-Indonesian Chamber of Industry and Commerce — are sharing this message in a batik exhibition at the Galeri Nasional Indonesia this month.

The ongoing “Indonesian Batik: A Living Heritage” exhibition journeys through the art form’s history and into its future, embedded in a global community.

It outlines the traditional and almost forgotten production processes and provides an insight into the meaningful symbols and motifs of batik.

It also pays homage to the works of the late batik master, Iwan Tirta, and features European batik artists, whose works are the latest examples of batik’s influence on European art.

“Batik is the peak of art,” said the German-Indonesia Chamber of Industry and Commerce (EKONID) deputy managing director and exhibition coordinator Martin Krummeck.

“We want to bring batik to the world and explain the story behind it.”

Berlin-based batik artist Joachim Blank is one of the seven European artists featured in the exhibition. He is doing precisely as Krummeck says.

Blank became fascinated in the natural dye methods of batik while traveling extensively through Southeast Asia between 1985 and 1992. After learning the craft in Yogyakarta, he began appropriating its core elements, while adding a uniquely European flavor.

Blank’s experimental technique sees him using materials in their natural form, as opposed to a specially carved canting, to etch the cloth.

“I am inspired by nature. I use pieces of wood, which I find at the beach or in the forest. I don’t carve them, I just use them like I see them.”

The product is more abstract than traditional batik, depicting a connection with the environment through the materials used, more than through delicate patterning and motifs. Blank pays particular attention to how materials such as cotton and silk have different structures, so that they give rise to different textures and allusions of depth.

For example, the wooden batik stamp used in his Red Roof piece sees a rectangular shape created, and the burned red and orange dyes given a more vivid grain.

While batik has lead to Blank calling Indonesia his second home, the Indonesian art community has expressed intrigue toward his self-proclaimed “strange” technique. He has been invited to hold workshops for three weeks before returning home in April.

“This is curious because I’m a German and I come to Indonesia to teach Indonesian students batik,” said Blank.

Despite the curator and University of Mainz lecturer’s local successes, he recognized that batik was still a misunderstood concept in Germany.

“This is something like a craft, and craft is a poor art in Germany. Nobody is interested in attending a batik exhibition. It is exotic, it’s not like a painting or sculpture, or ‘real art’ so to speak.”

Blank is eager to bridge this gap, even if it takes controversially painting a Mercedes-Benz with batik patterns.

The German ambassador in Indonesia, Norbert Baas, is confident that batik provides a perfect platform to strengthen ties between Indonesia and Germany.

“There can hardly be anything more colorful, imaginative and refined in Indonesia’s traditional arts than batik. Its inspiration from nature, a kind of sustainable creativity, constantly renewing itself, is the most wonderful trademark for Indonesia.”

The celebration of 60 years of diplomatic relations between the two countries began in October last year, and would only continue with the Living Heritage exhibition.

“Batik is something that is developing all the time. There is nothing stagnant about it. It is done by people who are inspired by their environments,” said Baas.

He was proud to see batik added to the UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity list in 2009, and a section of the exhibition dedicated to the Clean Batik Initiative.

The Initiative is a four-year (2010-2013) program implemented by EKONID, the German-Malaysian Chamber of Industry and Commerce and the IHK-Academy Munich. It is co-financed by the European Commission. A total of ¤2.2 million have been allocated to promote the sustainable production and consumption of batik.

Krummeck recognized that chemical dyes were still being thrown into waterways, and unsustainable resources such as gas and petrol were being used in the batik distribution process.

The exhibition’s Clean Batik Initiative section aims to inform people of a greener future for batik.

Nonetheless, in the spirit of a timeless art form, these forward-thinking projects are juxtaposed next to more antique versions of batik.

A “Pagi-Sore” cloth caught the eye of ceramics artist Gillian Arnold at the opening ceremony. It depicts intricate patterns and images representing the change from morning to evening.

“It’s just the quality of the dotting. Every piece of it is so fine,” said Arnold.

“The artist must have applied around 10 dyes to make all the shades of peach and purple.”

The collection of the APIP Kerajinan Batik founder, Afif Syakur, makes up 80 percent of the works on display. A tribute to the late batik legend Iwan Tirta also sees 33 of the country’s finest works displayed.

Iwan’s contemporary lavishness, coupled with his traditional designs, finds him in magazines such as Vogue, The New York Times and National Geographic.

It is in this vein that fashion designer Musa Widyatmodjo noted how the exhibition, “shows how rich our heritage is, and how there’s an optimistic future for batik”.

“Batik has been used by many designers in the fashion world. It’s a challenge for us to try to use our textiles more in the modern world, rather than just in ethnic fashion. Every part of the world can appreciate batik. It will stay alive while there is need and demand.”

Batik illustrates local, social structures and the stages of life: pregnancy, circumcision, engagement, marriage and eventually, death.

Time passes, social geography changes and batik evolves. Art is as fluid as its influences and the “Indonesian Batik: A Living Heritage” exhibition is an engaging reminder of this.

The writer is an intern at The Jakarta Post.

12 Langkah Membatik

Jika anda suka menggambar, tidak ada salahnya mencoba membatik.

Bila diurut-urut, proses membatik adalah sebagai berikut:

  1. Nyungging, yaitu membuat pola atau motif batik pada kertas. Tidak semua orang bisa membuat motif batik, sehingga pola ini dibuat oleh spesialis pola.
  2. Njaplak, memindahkan pola dari kertas ke kain.
  3. Nglowong, melekatkan malam di kain dengan canting sesuai pola. Pada tahap ini, motif batik akan mulai tampak.
  4. Ngiseni, memberikan motif isen-isen (isian) atau variasi pada ornamen utama yang sudah dilengreng atau dilekatkan dengan malam menggunakan canting.
  5. Nyolet, mewarnai bagian-bagian tertentu dengan kuas. Misalnya, gambar bunga atau burung yang muncul di sana-sini.
  6. Mopok, menutup bagian yang dicolet dengan malam. Tahap ini diiringi dengannembok, atau menutup bagian dasar kain yang tidak perlu diwarnai.
  7. Ngelir, melakukan proses pewarnaan kain secara menyeluruh.
  8. Nglorod, proses pertama meluruhkan malam dengan merendam kain di dalam air mendidih.
  9. Ngrentesi, memberikan cecek atau titik pada klowongan (garis-garis gambar pada ornamen utama). Untuk menghasilkan cecekan yang halus, digunakan canting dengan jarum yang tipis.
  10. Nyumri, menutup kembali bagian tertentu dengan malam.
  11. Nyoja, mencelupkan kain dengan warna coklat, atau sogan.  Batik sogan adalah batik yang berwarna dasar coklat, seperti batik Jogja atau batik solo.
  12. Nglorod, proses peluruhan malam kembali dengan cara merendam kain di dalam air mendidih.

Silahkan mencoba.. 🙂